S N A K E S

Choosing a Snake

   Snakes are elongated, legless animals with dry, scale-covered skin.  Their skin is unusually elastic, which allows it to stretch when large prey are swallowed.  Snakes are rather unique because of these features and because they lack moveable eyelids and external ear openings.

    The most common snakes kept in private are boas, pythons, rat, milk, racer, gopher and garter species.  The husbandry and dietary requirements for each type of snake vary considerably so proper research on the snake you choose should definitely be done before you purchase your new pet. Furthermore, some species (boas and   pythons) reach very large sizes in captivity, and their considerable space requirements must be anticipated.

    Snake temperaments vary among species and among individuals of the same species.  Certain snakes almost always retain a gentle, docile nature when they are raised from infancy (boa constrictors).  Other species (the larger pythons) are unpredictable and tend to be quite pugnacious as they mature, whether or not they are handled frequently.  Reticulated and Burmese pythons are especially unpredictable when they are anticipating being fed.  Proper care must be taken when handling these snakes.

    Select a snake that can feed without difficulty and one that is eating regularly.  Select a snake that appears healthy in all aspects.  Avoid choosing an unthrifty-looking snake out of sympathy with the idea that you can nurse it back to health.

    Avoid selecting a snake belonging to a species that is notoriously difficult to keep in captivity.  Avoid selecting a poisonous or venomous species.

    Housing

   Aquariums or other similar glass or Plexiglas enclosures are usually the most suitable enclosures.  The top should be secure and escape proof since many snakes are escape artists.  Also, snakes will use both the horizontal and vertical space within their enclosure if provisions are made.

    Unprinted newsprint, butcher paper, paper towels and indoor-outdoor carpeting are the most suitable materials for the bottom of the aquarium.   Under no circumstances should pea gravel, kitty litter, crushed corncob material or wood shavings be used.  These materials can keep in bacteria and cause an intestinal obstruction if eaten.

    It is very important to provide some privacy for a captive snake.  Many snakes will not feed without the security of a hide box.

    Temperatures

   Tropical snakes (boas, pythons, etc.) require relatively warm temperatures and high relative humidity.  Daytime temperatures should range between 80° and 85°F without creating problems for most snakes.  Native American snakes do well when maintained at 70°-80°F.

    Lighting

   Direct, unfiltered sunlight is the healthiest way to house reptiles, especially during the warm months.  Ultraviolet rays that are essential for proper health do not pass through glass so putting your cage next to a window is not adequate.  The next best solution is to use an artificial ultraviolet light source rather than fluorescent or incandescent lightbulbs.  It is best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness each day.

    Feeding

    Water should be provide at all times.  Most snakes drink infrequently but use a suitable container for immersing themselves and soaking.

    Feed dead or incapacitated prey whenever possible.   This is because such prey cannot inquire the feeding snake by inflicting a serious bite wound.  If it is not possible to offer anything other than live and fully conscious prey for a snake to successfully feed, the encounter must be carefully supervised.

    Feeding schedules for captive snakes vary with the age, species, size, condition and specific requirements of the individual.  Generally speaking, pet snakes are usually fed once every 1-2 weeks.  Juveniles and adults for which a relatively rapid growth rate is desired can be fed more frequently, providing that environmental temperatures are warm enough to allow complete and thorough digestion.   Older snake are usually fed less frequently, often once every 3-6 weeks.  The number of prey animals offered at each feeding is determined by the same factors discussed above with the regard to the frequency of feeding.

    Shedding

    Shedding is the process by which snakes periodically discard the outer portion of their skin.  This activity is under hormonal control and associated with growth.  Most snakes shed their skin 4-8 times per year.

    The shedding process is preceded by a period of relative inactivity.  This period usually lasts 1-2 weeks, during which time the eyes begin to exhibit a dull, bluish-white appearance.

    Reproduction

   Snakes  produce offspring in 2 basic ways.  In the first, live juvenile snakes are born that look like miniature adults.  Boa constrictors, water and garter snakes, and rattlesnakes are examples.

    The second method involves the deposition of oblong leather-shelled eggs.  Pythons, rat and milk snakes are egg layers.

    All newborn or newly hatched snakes can fend for themselves and receive no parental nurturing.

    Signs of Illness

   The following is a partial  list of potential medical problems.  If any of these problems occur, or if your snake is not acting right for any other reasons, then it should be seen by your veterinarian.  The list includes, but is not limited to failure to voluntarily feed, regurgitation, burns, rat/mouse bites, nose abrasions, constipation, cloacal prolapses, abnormal shedding, retained eye caps, abscesses and respiratory infections.

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