The Green Iguana

History

    The green iguana is a tree-living daylight active lizard that lives in tropical and subtropical regions.  It is most often found in the vicinity of rivers and streams.  Iguanas have short, powerful limbs equipped with sharp claws and a strong tail.  They can reach lengths of 6-6 1/2 feet.   Male iguanas tend to be larger and have a brighter overall coloration than females.

    Iguanas mate in January or February.   After a pregnancy of about 2 months, the female digs in moist sand or soil, usually near the base of a tree, and deposits 25-40 eggs.  The hatchlings emerge in about 2 weeks, measuring 25-30 centimeters long.  They grow 15-24 centimeters a year and attain sexual maturity in about 3 years.

Diet

    Iguanas do not need cat food or other meat sources.  They will thrive and do extremely well on an all-vegetable diet.   Juvenile iguanas should be fed daily while older iguanas should be fed 2-3 times per week.  Examples include broccoli and its leaves, swiss chard, spinach, alfalfa sprouts, beets, collard, mustard and turnip green, carrot tops and thawed, frozen mixed vegetables. Chop all of the ingredients into a size that can be easily handled.  Feed at least three different vegetables at all times and liberally sprinkle them with an appropriate vitamin-mineral supplement.  Water needs to be available in a bowl at all times.

Humidity

    Already mentioned is the fact that iguanas come from a tropical environment (Mexico and South America).  It is not only hot there, but very humid.  You can provide humidity by misting the enclosure with distilled water.  A light misting twice daily usually does the trick.

Hygiene

    Next to adequate nutrition, no other aspect of husbandry for captive reptiles is more important than sanitation and hygiene.  Many bacterial and fungal diseases of captive reptiles result from their daily exposure to fecal contamination and a damp, filthy environment.

    An iguana's cage floor or aquarium can be covered with clean newspaper (unprinted preferably) or butcher paper.  The next best material is indoor-outdoor carpeting.  Under no circumstances should pea gravel, corncob material, wood shavings, sand, kitty litter or sawdust be used.  None of these items promotes adequate cleanliness, and they may be eaten while the iguana is feeding, resulting in intestinal impaction.

    Reptiles are highly susceptible to poisoning from pine oil cleaners, such as PinesolŪ and LysolŪ.  These household cleaners must be avoided.

Light

    Captive reptiles rarely receive adequate exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, especially when they are housed indoors.  Iguanas must receive direct sunlight to benefit from its UV component.  Ultraviolet light is necessary to properly absorb dietary calcium.

    Window glass and plastic filter UV light. Consequently, reptiles must be housed in screened or wire enclosures during the time they are to be exposed to direct sunlight.  Also, a shaded area must be provided so the iguana can avoid heat strokes from over exposure to sunlight.

    While indoors, provide iguanas with a full spectrum light source.  Vita-lights are commonly used.  All full spectrum lights need to be changed at least every year - even if they're still working since they lose their spectrum with age.  To approximate a natural setting, it is best to supply 10-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness each day.

Heat

    All reptiles require a warm environment temperature to raise their body temperature and increase their metabolic rate and activity level.  The optimal environmental temperature to provide for captive iguanas in their enclosures is between 85°F and 103°F.  Heat sources include regular 100 watt bulbs, 125-250 watt infrared bulbs in safe fixtures and ceramic heat bulbs.  It is best to avoid hot rocks because iguanas tend to spend too much time on them and frequently develop serious burns.

Illness

    The most common causes of disease in a captive iguana are poor nutrition or poor hygiene.  Any sign of lethargy, not eating, swollen jaw or legs, paralysis, abrasions or injuries, your iguana should be seen by your veterinarian, most people wait too long to bring their iguana in so they usually die.   If your iguana for any reason is not acting right, call for an appointment right away.

Return to Napoleon Veterinary Clinic Exotics Page

Return to Napoleon Veterinary Clinic Home Page